Thursday, December 24, 2009

Christmas in Arusha

Lately I feel like most of my life is spent waiting. But patience is a virtue right? It's been a bit cold in Arusha lately although I'm sure its not nearly as cold as back home.
So today is Christmas Eve and normally I'd be hanging out with family in anticipation of some delicious food and gift giving. This year I read my novel for a couple hours and then I went swimming for the afternoon. In the evening I hung out with my friends, had a yummy, fairly Indian dinner and then went to the club for a couple drinks. Kind of an odd way to celebrate but "this is how we do." Tomorrow should be quite a lovely day. Some friends and I are doing a day trip to Lake Manyara/Tangire National Park. I think that is a good way to spend Christmas don't you?
Everyone asks if I am going to do a safari while I'm here. The answer is no. I just don't think now is the right timing. I don't want to rush it or do it to cheaply. I'd also prefer not to go alone so I think that will be a future trip. Of course I always take for granted that I will be back in Tanzania.
It is about 3am here so I am tired and need to go to bed but I hope you are all enjoying a lovely Christmas Eve with family and friends.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

All Maasai, All Swahili, All Day!

Yesterday I spent the entire day, 9am - 5:30pm, in a Maasai meeting solely in Swahili. Fortunately I had some interpretation...
It was a stakeholders meeting for an organization called Monduli Pastoralist Development Initiative. There were over 40 Maasai leaders from 8 villages in the Sepeko Ward, to discuss the importance of Early Childhood Development. It was more or less a training session and a reminder to consider ECD in their budgetary planning. Thesse are important issues as the Maasai community is reluctant to educate their children and budget planning tends to be more of a shopping list than a detailed plan. Our hope is that the leaders will now implement some of the things they have learned and commitments they've made. I'm afriad it is part of the human condition that people talk big but do little.
It was interesting to see how the meeting was conducted. The presenters were very particular about audience participation and stretching breaks. Everytime they wanted to applaud a presentation the moderator created a new way for us all to clap. It was quite fun and it kept everyone's attention. Even so, by the end of the day people were falling asleep!
I must say I throughly enjoyed spending the day with them. It was great to be welcomed into such a meeting where I obviously didn't belong.

Monday, December 14, 2009

UPDATES!

Okay so things have been busy the last few weeks so sorry to those of you sitting on the edge of your seats waiting for my next entry! Where to begin?! I think this warrants a few entries…scroll down to "Maasai" if you like to read it in order

In other news my camera is now broken...so much for pictures!
Maybe I can buy a cheap one somewhere.

Friday, December 11, 2009

Advances from the O'bay Po Po

This is possibly one of the funnier stories I have to tell. I finally decided I should make the police report on my stolen wallet so that I could cancel my TZ bank card. Dennis was kind enough to make the time to take me to the Oysterbay Police Station. In Tanzania you generally avoid the police at all costs, the mantra “to serve and protect” isn’t executed quite the same here. Anyway, I went in with that somewhat sickening nervous feeling in the pit of my stomach. Not wanting them to smell my fear I tried to be as casual and jovial as can be appropriate in a police station. Things went quite smoothly, in fact I was in and out in half an hour with the report in hand. It is possible the Oyster Bay Police are just that efficient but it is likely another case of Mzungu fever. Let me explain…
So first I had to sit down with an officer (I now know him as David) and describe what happened. Dennis explained the basics but then the officer looked at him and said, “You go wait over there.” Now I was left to answer technical questions including “what’s your tribe?”… Canadian?
Then the officer sent me upstairs to room 5 where I was to pay a 500Tsh fee – that’s about 45 cents. I walked out of that room and found the officer waiting for me outside the door, “Okay, are you done?” Yes. “Now you go to room 1 and they will write a report.” It was back downstairs and on the way, the officer turns, suddenly having lost his demure stance, and says, “So can I have your number?” What?! He repeated this request and I burst out laughing! Perhaps that was an inappropriate response toward a police officer but I experience advances from people in the street and people in government offices and people in hotels but somehow I thought the police station would be different. Maybe because I’m afraid of them. Haha.
I gave him the number and we proceeded to chat like buddies about the fact that I was heading back to Arusha but would be in Dar for Christmas. Then he says, “So don’t be afraid to answer when I call you." I laughed and said Of course I’ll be afraid, it’s the police calling! We reached the bottom of the stairs and he turned to walk down another corridor and I had the nerve to say, Hey! Aren’t you going to direct me to room 1? He pointed the way and we parted…and Ihave been getting friendly text messages ever since…including a transfer of 1000Tsh mobile credit. Apparentely he misses me and life is bad ever since that day as he awaits my return to Dar for Christmas…let’s take a poll…can an officer detain me for refusing him? I think I better tread lightly. haha

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Wallet Woes!

My Wallet was stolen! I was so proud that I had made it 2.5 months in Tanzania without any problems…I haven’t even gotten lost! Of course this happened in Dar though. I had to return to Dar for some planning meetings and to renew my visitor’s visa, a process which went quite smoothly thanks to the professor who seems to know someone everywhere. The funny thing about Prof. Mongula is that every time someone is struggling to get something done or contact someone he just says “oh, well let me just call this guy…” out comes the mobile and within minutes there is a solution. So of course he has a former student working in immigration and she had me in and out in half an hour while the rest of the world sat in the waiting room all day.
Anyway, following lunch I went to Mlimani City (a mall) to look around and hear some Christmas music. I left with a couple bags in my purse and hopped on the daladala. I was headed to my friend and fellow Canadian’s house to stay and share a bottle of wine. At Mwenge I had to transfer to another daladala, this area is somewhat notorious for theft but it was a short walk around a corner to catch the Tegeta dala. I’ve also done it a million times!
Long story short, when I went to take the fare from my wallet I discovered there was no wallet. I had a silent frantic moment searching through my bag just praying, please let it be here! Fortunately I had some change at the bottom of my bag and could pay the conductor. Unfortunately my wallet was now gone including all my Canadians banking cards, Mastercard, my Tanzanian Tembo card (ATM) not to mention the international calling card I had just bought, $100 I had just taken from the bank and the JYSK credit, spa giftcard and Indigo giftcard that were still sitting in my wallet. Oh and I really liked that wallet!
I think the reason it got taken was that when I put the wallet away after the first dala I sort of left it on top…usually not a problem but there is usually less in the bag and so it was an easier grab. It is odd though since I didn’t even feel someone brush against me and I generally notice stuff like that.
Today I wrote my Mum and asked her to cancel all the cards…thank God the Canadian system is so simple! When I went to my Tanzanian bank they said I had to make a police report BEFORE they would cancel the card…but that’s another story.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Government Presentation Meeting

It has been a long and busy week! With Chantal here for only a short time we needed to fit in a lot of activities. It is really great to accomplish so much though! Today we had a presentation meeting with government officials to offer a comprehensive description of the project, the research Mesha and I have been doing and to discuss continued cooperation in the next steps. There is something about knowing people are government officials, even if you’ve become friendly with them, that makes giving a presentation intimidating. I’m not usually very nervous for these things but I had butterflies and wanted to get it over with. I must say it went well and we received helpful feedback. It is nice to do something so conclusive and official.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Maasai

Maasai! I love the Maasai…somehow I feel incredibly safe with the Maasai Warriors (security guards) manning the gate. One day I was up and out the door early without Mesha and as I approached the gate to leave all 5 or 6 of our Maasai were out there. “Asubuhi” (Good morning) I said, and as a chorus they replied “Salama” (safe – good). Something about that made me feel good. I always think that if you wanted to know anything about anyone at this hotel you need only ask the Maasai because they see everything and don’t do much talking. They know who goes in and out, when they go and with whom!
It’s also nice to have them around because they’ll do anything for you. We send them to do all sorts of things…mostly to go buy things that we don’t want to make the trip for like buying mobile credit vouchers, water we forgot to buy on the way home, sending mail to the post office, pick up some chicken for dinner, etc. I guess it sounds awful like we abuse their service but its part of their job to basically just do stuff. Of course when I say “we” I mean the hotel staff sends them to do all of this. The most I’ve done is made one of them come help Mesha kill a bug. Hahaha.
What’s really cool about the Maasai is that they are so deeply rooted in their tradition. It is incredible that as a community they have managed to keep their culture so intact. Of course this is a double-edged sword…where tradition encourages them to increase their head of cattle, modern economics demands they sell cattle before the drought. And drought is a serious issue these days, the rains come late more frequently and people go without food. I am always in awe that anyone in today’s society ever goes hungry.
We spent some time visiting the villages of Lepruko and Mti Mmoja in the Sepeko Ward. When we dropped in on Mti Mmoja it just so happened that the leaders had scheduled a meeting to being shortly and so they were able to convene early to hear our proposal for new partnerships. I think we all sensed the good fortune of the situation and took it as a sign that this was a positive development.
I struggle with the idea of so-called development in the Maasai community. It seems obvious that everyone should be educated and have the basic human rights including gender equality. This becomes tricky though when you’re dealing with such a unique group of people. So much of what is inherent to being Maasai depends on traditions that are so counter to the ‘developed world.’ Without a doubt I am against genital mutilation and for women’s rights but where do we draw the line? At what point does rights reform overtake cultural integrity?
Then I look at Mesha who is extremely unique as an educated female Maasai. She has ‘enlightened’ ideas about women’s rights and education but to be honest even she acknowledges she is treated differently when she goes home to her village. So can you be educated and still be Maasai in the truest sense? Mesha will not likely marry Maasai and she doesn’t wear all the special clothing and beads except when she goes home. Although she loves her ugali, smoked beef and milk!
But it makes me wonder if the Maasai culture will fade with development. Even as youth are moving into the city for employment, especially young men, they are missing some culturally essential skills, like how to do Maasai style hair. Maasai style is very tiny twisting or braiding of the hair. The men traditionally do the women’s hair for them in this way.
Regardless, it has been really cool to visit some of the villages. I bought about $65 worth of Maasai jewelry from a group of orphaned women…most of it can’t seriously be worn in Canada or anywhere really, but it is a nice cultural token. Of course in a moment of silly exhaustion I got dressed up completely like a Maasai and did a Maasai dance for Mesha…I think she cried a little from laughter.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Victory and Defeat

What a complex day…I am exhausted yet I feel like I should get it all down; especially since I just had a great victory. Let us begin with the win because there was also defeat…
This evening Mesha and I were taken to dine at an excellent Indian restaurant with a man we recently met. To accurately explain my victory I am afraid I must be politically incorrect. One way or another, the discussion landed on the recognition of women’s work. The man views women’s work as a given that does not need to be recognized or appreciated although he knows that the house could not run without her. Holding this view was his first mistake, expressing it was his second. One of the difficult yet beautiful things about Tanzanians is that they are very frank. They frequently say precisely what they are thinking without any hesitation. Thus Mesha was quick to counter his views. To make a long story short, the win was our ability to utterly silence a man who openly holds patriarchal and sexist views of women. It really struck me how valuable a woman’s education is to her ability to defend herself. Without a doubt it is due to my education that I could discuss the essential importance of considerating women’s work in policy making and the efficiency of a man’s world.
Unfortunately I also experienced some defeat today. Mesha and I are desperately trying to make headway on the database. I think I already mentioned that the district ministers are all in meetings this week and so coordinating interviews has been difficult. While meeting with an officer today, however, we discovered the letter of introduction had not been properly disseminated to all ministers. Introductions are essential in the government sector. If you don’t ask questions with legitimate authority and clearance there are people who get very angry. Rightfully so I guess but we DID take proper precautions by insuring letters were to be sent to the right people. Unfortunately we didn’t double check far enough down the line of command and the final dissemination of the letter did not occur. I was rather frustrated but it's important to roll with the punches as they say. Anyway, the ministers had not received the letter and so we had to do some running around to correct the miscommunication. By Friday everyone should have the letter and we have two appointments so it should be clear sailing from there. HOWEVER…it has been two weeks and we are barely taking a chunk out of the work that needs to be done.

In funny news, an old drunk Maasai man on the daladala asked me to “just come” with him so I could join his harem of two wives. Umm…he mostly used hand actions to explain this so it was pretty hilarious and awkward…

In exciting news, I randomly met Forrest, the man who facilitated my trip to Bukoba, Tanzania, three years ago. I was just sitting in the foyer of the hotel and suddenly he was there before me, walking through the same foyer. “Forrest?!” I said. It was totally bizarre, then we sat for chai upstairs and I finally got to meet his wife and their adorable little baby.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Language, Mango Mama and Assimilation

As Canadians we tend to think of ourselves as privileged and fortunate. Although this is true in a very broad sense I fear I must say I feel terribly disadvantaged. I speak English, make a hack job of French and dabble in Spanish and Swahili. It’s sad and perhaps this is my fault for not taking greater initiative. Yesterday I was hanging out with some friends who speak 6 languages – fluently. On the other side of the world it is a given that you speak multiple languages. I think the fact that we are born into English and seem to think it is the only language truly necessary in the world is unfortunate and rather embarrassing. I wish the brain pathways to learn languages easily were created in me at young age but I am not so lucky. I must try harder to master other languages.
We have met a mama who I have dubbed “Mango Mama” because she convinced us to buy her mangos one day by saying that if we buy her mangos the watoto (children) will be able to eat. How can you refuse that? Okay so we bought two mangos and they were delicious! We have run into her twice around town since then and continue to say, “hey, Mango Mama” and then we buy two more mangos.
In other news…I am assimilating. For better or worse this happens to me quite easily. Yesterday I was talking with an English couple, informing them of my friends’ biogas company and said the following, “the company is also run by a mzungu.”At that everyone burst out laughing, as I had said it as if I were not a mzungu myself! The Tanzanian mama clapped my hand and said “good job!”
In another instance I have caused a good laugh when sounding, “ah ah!” in the car to stop someone from going past the driveway. This “ah ah!” was in place of saying something to the effect of “no, this is the drive right here.”

Sunday, November 8, 2009

I have finally arrived in Arusha and I am SO excited and happy to be here. I don't know what it is about mountains and green landscapes that makes me feel at home. (I think Maurice is vehemently agreeing with me right now.) I could live here. It is cool in the evenings and I can even wear a light sweater.
The 9 hour bus ride wasn't as bad as I thought it would be even though air conditioning didn't work and the window on my side wouldn't open! Oh I am just so happy, this is exactly what I needed. To get away from the big, hot city and into the Tanzania I know.
I am currently sitting at the Outpost Lodge with my friend Mesha, enjoying the cool air and each others' company...and the free wireless internet I'm able to pick up! Oh yes, some of you may have seen my complaints on facebook about trying to download itunes ...just started the download again and only 54 minutes to go...cheers to music through the computer speakers!
I'm also surrounded by a lot of mzungus right now...that's something new.
Mesha is in stitches beside me because I'm telling her funny things to do in Swahili. I love it when she laughs! I'm also planning to set her up with my friend Charles who lives in Mwanza right now. Yep I'm even doing a little match making in Tanzania!
Anyway, I feel like I'm just babbling. I'm a bit to tired to be eloquent and provide you with the echoing depths of my thoughts....
Goodnight...or shall I say good afternoon.
OR what I've always wanted to say, "top of the day!" (like that scene in Mary Poppins)

Friday, November 6, 2009

I think, if they let me, I could forget I'm white.

confronted by violence

 A huge nasty mende (cockroach) crawled in my suitcase (because I haven’t been zipping it shut – because there hasn’t been a single bloody creepy crawler in my room) so I dragged it out of the closet and removed every piece of clothing, turned it over and banged on it and no mende. So where is it? Now I’m supposed to fall asleep.

The truth is I’m not that phased by it but they’re just so gross and pointless. As a result, however, I had the most hilarious phone conversation with my friend Charles, which ended in his conspiracy theory about people listening in on mobile conversations... until my minutes ran out. Now I’m exhausted but I had all these brilliant things I wanted to write. Maybe I can hash some of them out.

So I went to see Inglorious Bastards tonight. Of course it was brilliant in its assaulting, brutish Tarantino style. Actually I think it forces you to confront yourself in a startling way. I will pause here to tell anyone who has yet to see the film to stop reading because I will not hesitate to reveal the plot.

It seems nearly instinctive to hate the Nazi regime, which is not that distinguishable from hating Nazis. Given the horrific genocide enacted by the Nazis I would venture to say popular opinion allows such hatred. Tarantino, however, confronts us with our desires for revenge, violence and murder. Somehow a Nazi being brutally killed is justified and even satisfying in our minds because we identify them as villainous. Okay, but by the end of the film Tarintino effectively transforms us into Nazis through the parallel of watching violence and brutality on film. The Nazis watch a film about hundreds being killed and derive pleasure from it. It’s disgusting; revolting. But our revenge on them is to do same thing. We sit and watch a film about brutally killing as many Nazis as possible and want to cheer when the cinema burns down with them all inside. Is there a difference just because they did evil things? Can we say they deserved it? You might say violence begets violence but who decides how and when?

I find this particularly interesting in light of having just read The Reader by Bernhard Schlink. Perhaps some of you have read it or seen the recent movie. I felt an odd and inappropriate sympathy for Hanna even though she was a Nazi guard and I knew her crimes. Certainly there is much to be said for presentation and where The Reader is meant to startle you with sympathetic feelings for a Nazi; Inglorious Bastards is meant to startle you with the violence of your hatred for Nazis. At least this is my initial interpretation the film and novel...feel free to agree, disagree or elaborate further!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

This Is It

Monday was a bad day. Everything seemed to be going wrong...I was frustrated by plans for Arusha, very few questionnaires had been returned (still the case!), by 2:30pm I realized I had nothing left to do for the day and it was too late to start a trek to the city centre, my ipod started to malfunction and to top things off I had a mini anxiety attack when I realized my mosquito net had been changed and was now a smaller one which was crouching in on my space to sleep (I'm somewhat claustrophobic). So it was a bad day but things have picked up since. My ipod is back to normal working order and things are smoothing themselves out. Also I hung out with my friend Langa last night and we went to see This Is It.

Incredible!

I do recommend seeing the movie. That tour would have been spectacular to see and I feel like I got to know MJ a little. I think I would have liked to meet and chat with him just to hear what ran through his mind. I think that if people listened to Michael as much as they love him the world really would change. It's surprising how many positive messages he actually put out in his music and how many different issues he touched on.

Anyway, I've been inspired by him and I think it will motivate me to make some changes in my own life so thanks MJ!

Friday, October 30, 2009

A Lifetime of Prep

Yesterday I met a girl at the university who asked me how long I'd been in Tanzania. When I told her one month she gave me a look of surprise and said, "it seems like you've been here much longer."

I don't know what she was basing that opinion on but sometimes I think my entire life has been preparing me for Africa. That's not to say I suddenly think I want to spend my life here.

Today I was on the bus and it was sweltering hot and we weren't moving (cues and hold ups are about the only thing you can count on in this country) and it occurred to me as I sat back resting my eyes that I'm incredibly patient. I'm not trying to pat myself on the back and if Heather is reading this she is probably saying "yeah right." But it's true...I am very patient for the things that can not be controlled but if I have an idea (such as "i want to play HALO - now") I have to make it happen right away (hence my impulsive purchase of an XBOX off Kijiji this summer). The point is, such a character trait is incredibly handy here.

I'm also really good at zoning out. In Canada some have thought I'm just constantly lost in my own deep thoughts (and sometimes that is true) but sometimes i'm just totally zoned out. No I'm not a pot head. This may seem an odd asset but when you find yourself in large crowds of people speaking a language you don't understand it is quite handy to zone out and live in your own world for a while (where you can talk to yourself and it's quite interesting!)

Perhaps one of the more obvious preparations are the years I spent in ethinic churches...particularly the Ghanaian one. There are funny little cultural things (like the presentation of a faux mink blanket as a gift - in this heat?!)that happen here all the time that don't phase me because I've experienced them so many times before. I guess that gives me confidence.

And my most African asset would be...my ass. Is that inappropriate? Sorry to all the 'professionals' reading this. But if you know Tanzanians you know they love to talk about relationships and the way girls look. I have a more African than Canadian figure. There is no escaping it. But If ind it somewhat hilarious because all the things that potentially make me insecure in Canada make me hot in Tanzania. Hot Damn.

In other news...I've been encourages by a professor/friend here to start writing again. After some of the things I went through two years ago I stopped writing because writing was a reminder of pain. I think it's time for me to get over that and start being creative again. So I might be publishing some colomns in a local English paper here...that would be cool!

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Bored.

So I've been staying at the University flat for 6 days now...it's boring. For whatever reason there are only a few other people staying there right now and they are virtually invisible. Being alone makes you discover things about yourself. For some reason I don't like to eat out alone or maybe I'm just intimidated but I tend to combine lunch and dinner by eating in between the two times. It's kind of weird. Anyway, I'm trying to get this media guide done but only 5 out of 20 people have returned their forms. Sometimes getting things done here is excruciating! I'm missing Canada and the people I know there.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Locked IN my room!

It has been difficult lately to get to the Internet so I have post dated the last three entries to when I actually wrote them. Things are coming along. Today I moved from the home I was staying in to a flat at the University. Within the first 20 minutes I not only locked myself IN the room, I broke the key. Oh yes, this is a true story.
I thought it would be good to try locking the door but I forgot to keep the door open as I did this. So I locked myself in and when I tried to get out I couldn't turn the key over. I tried so hard in fact that the key broke off and was in the door lock. I had a 5sec hyperventilation session and then I figured out how to get the key out...excellent but I was still a prisoner in my own room...by my own hand!
Fortunately I figured out how to open the window slats and was able to call out to a staff member for help. "Help I've locked myself IN MY ROOM" Now if that doesn't make me a "crazy Mzungu" I don't know what does.
It was a great way to start the day...really.
But the room is really nice and there is a complimentary breakfast in the mornings PLUS there will be no blasting prayers or kookoos waking me up or Mama walking in my room at 6:30am to tell me she is leaving for school...
Thank GOD!
I love and miss you all...eventually I'll figure out how to get pictures up!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Daladalas and "Squeezers"

Today was a really great day.

I’ve been pretty awesome at managing the daladala (local bus) system on my own. I can only describe it as the most chaotic yet surprisingly easy and efficient transit system I’ve ever experienced. They have a guy that hollars out the destination of the bus, which is also printed on the outside, and as the bust rolls by (sometimes barely stopping) you just jump on. Eventually the money collector comes around, clinking the coins in his hand, and you pass over a few hundred shillings. The process of scrambling to make it on a bus is rather exhilarating.

The daladalas are generally packed so if you can get a seat you take it. If not, you’re left standing which can get fairly interesting as you squish together and get jostled about. Sometimes you can’t even hold on to anything. The first time this happened to me I thought…”here we go, I’m going to just fall over.” But the brilliant thing about being packed in the bus like sardines in a can is that no one can fall. You just sort of sway as one giant being. So I braced myself a bit with my hands against the roof and just swayed with the crowd.

Letting people off the bus can be a bit tricky…it involves a lot of maneuvering and pushing past bodies but somehow it works. One time I found myself in the last seat by the window, where my knees had been crushed by the slanted seat in front of me for about an hour. I had been planning my escape route the entire time and decided the best way to get out would be to just jump out the window. It seemed wholly reasonable to me, I figured I could fit through and the entire bus would get a good laugh. Fortunately…or unfortunately, I’m not sure…the bus emptied out by the time we reached my stop and not only did my knees experience extreme relief but I was able to casually walk off the bus.

Today’s experience was particularly hilarious because amidst all this, I met a sweet talker. Not only did he dub me his “gorjus (gorgeous) Baby” within the first half hour of talking but he called me a “squeezer.” Perhaps I should explain. It’s amazing how quickly a conversation can digress from discussions of Canada and schools to “I love you, baby.” I’m not oblivious to how the African sweet talking of Mzungus works and I figured his English was good enough to let him know it...so I told him he’s a player. Of course he pretended to be shocked by this, wondering how I could say (or know) such a thing. The whole encounter was a pretty funny and harmless. When we parted ways he said to his friend “she’s a squeezer.” I had to ask Alex what this means, which he told me is slang for a girl who won’t reciprocate affections. Okay so I didn’t fall in love with him in minutes…I’m also not looking to get an easy lay or a ticket to Canada! Hahaha…

It’s amazing how easy it is to pick up in Tanzania if you’re a foreigner. You have to give these guys credit for being so forward…I guess you never know when you’ll get lucky.

Enough from me…how are you?

Monday, October 19, 2009

Development Blues

Development is so frustrating. I am sitting here watching a news bit on the food crisis in Africa and a hospital in Lesotho that is dedicated to administering HIV/AIDS meds to children. My tasks here in Tanzania are administrative and assist in the structural dynamics of development. While I know I am contributing to something important and sustainable, I can’t help but wish to be doing something more tangible. If I had gone to University for something like Nursing (as I had planned…) I could administer needles and check blood pressure and work in a hospital for 8 hours a day giving out meds. At the end of three months I would know I helped hundreds of thousands of people in their fight against disease.
The struggle between these dynamics of development is a constant struggle for me and many other Development students I know. Of course we understand the need for “frontline” and administrative work there is just this nagging desire to be doing.

Maybe I’m too compulsive or impatient or maybe I just like the reward of tangible results. Sometimes it just feels like I’m wasting my time on faux development, when I could be doing something that feels more real. Is this just an emotional response? Am I thinking with my heart instead of with my head when I get like this? Probably. I really don’t want to go back to school but I need to be involved in something that is not wholly contingent on computer or internet access. I’m hoping this will change when I get a career job.

I think I also get really frustrated by the blatant injustices in human society. Is it so difficult and absurd to have equality or curb greed??
An advocate on the news said, “Unless people are getting a plate of food they can’t focus on education or skills development.” It’s wrong that something as basic as food is a barrier to development.

“There is no deficit in human resources only a deficit in human will.” Martin Luther King Jr.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Mzungu

I had a bit of a frustrating day and feel the need to rant..

Being a white woman in a sea of Africans is entertaining…mostly for them not me. If you have been to Africa as a visible foreigner then you are familiar with the constant declarations that you are white. “Mzungu, Mzungu” is like a incessant ringing bell. Everywhere you go people feel obliged to remind you that:

a) You are white
b) They have noticed you are white
c) This is something we should all comment on

Most of the time they just want to greet you or ask you to marry them. ..
Oh and it’s perfectly alright for me to have multiple husbands…in multiple countries…so say the boys at the market. Watch out.
Africa is funny. If you have serious issues with self-worth or confidence I don’t recommend coming here…on the other hand it might be just what you need to get over it. Being the object of investigation for everyone around you means every flaw will be noted and mentioned…and likely laughed about. I can’t even count the number of times the freckles or moles on my arms have been counted or comments on my stray-away hair in the wind or discussions over the fact that I don’t take sugar in my coffee and take smaller portions at dinner or the fact that I drink a lot of water or that when I got sick last time I was here I cried (um…I think they’re missing the severity of that situation…I was temporarily paralyzed and that warrants crying!) or that I didn’t cry this time when I had a fever or that I look skinny now or why do I shave and what is this mark and it goes on and on…

But this is all tolerable. What’s actually annoying is walking through the street and constantly being called upon. Now as you know, I’m a friendly person but I have my limits and sometimes I would like to be able to walk in the open air without having to say hello to everyone or being starred at, looked up and down, hollered at or propositioned. Sometimes I hold Alex’s hand just so people will leave me alone.

Okay I’m done.

As an aside: I miss GRASS! Dar is so hot and dusty there is next to no grass and I miss it because grass is beautiful and it feels good under my toes. Arusha will be cooler and more lush!

Monday, October 12, 2009

curriculum development

Hello Friends!

It is good to hear from some of you. Things are well here. The best way I can describe being in Tanzania is that it's like falling in and out of love over and over. That probably sounds overly romantic but I mean it in the way that every emotion you feel here is amplified...probably because as a foreigner I am fairly vulnerable. So when things are beautiful and you feel confident it's like being in love because you're so happy but in a moment you can feel alone or lost or miss home or find out someone you love probably has HIV and suddenly your heart is broken again.
Anyway, it is hard to believe I've been here just over a week. Time moves slowly in Tanzania...that may have something to do with the fact that you wake up around 5am! Every morning I can depend on the THREE local Muslim temples blasting the morning call to prayer every 15min for an hour starting at 5am. Then the rooster that perches outside my window notices the light and screams at me until I force myself out of bed around 7am...if only to make him shut up. If that thing didn't contribute the livelihood of the family I'm staying with I think I'd have to shoot it.
Speaking of the family I'm staying with...they are wonderful! Mama Mercy takes good care of me and is an excellent cook.
Last Thursday was a very interesting day. I was invited to take part in a curriculum development meeting. The project I am working with developed three new courses and this was a meeting of the stakeholders to review them and make changes. It was so exciting to read the syllabus and participate in forming some really great courses. I kind of wished I could attend the classes! Wendy Russell would be proud of me because I recommended an entire section on ETHICS be added to the information and communication course. They approved! haha...I suppose my mark is now made! It was very exciting to see such development happening though!
This week I am trying to collect information on the project members with Dr. Mongula out of the country...this should be interesting.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Gender Equality

Today I am at a much more secure internet cafe so I hope this will post. Things are going alright here. I've finally got a bank account opened and have figured out how to take the daladalas (city bus) by myself. I've been to the beach although I did not swim and have seen some of the nightlife, which is less than impressive. More interesting is some of the conversations I've been having. I'm fortunate that the family I am staying with all speak English and in fact the Mama works in development. So we have been talking about the answers to Tanzania's problems and how the government and other organizations are moving (or not moving) in that direction. Mama believes the key to Tanzanian development is gender equality and I think I agree with her. The catch of course is trying to change the worldview of an entire country that is rooted in deep tradition. Not easy. I've started to get the views of different people on this...asking my friends whether or not and how they were taught about gender in school. You can remould a young child but not so much an adult, of course most of the teaching of the young is done in the home.
Tomorrow I will go to the University and meet with my professor to discuss how I will embark on my first task of creating a media guide. I'm a little bit lost at the moment as to how this will pan out but hopefully we'll figure it out.
Anyway, thanks to those who are praying for me, I need it. Miss and love you all...can't wait to come home - sort of.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Monday, September 28, 2009

Changes

Well my visa came in last week and yesterday I moved all my belongs into my parents house with the help of some incredible sisters! It feels very strange to look in a room that used to be called "The Guest Room" and see my bed and all my belogings. Leaving London was probably one of the more difficult things I've had to do in a long time but I think the fact that it was hard to do emphasizes how wonderful it is to share such a bond of love between friends. I know I am truly blessed!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

The Beginning of Things

The count down is certainly on as there are only 10 days left until I leave for Tanzania. If goodbye parties haven't made it abundantly clear that I'm leaving, the fact that I've been buzzing around town getting pictures for visas and prescriptions for mefloquine has! I've always found the reality of a trip does not set in for me until the plane has landed but this time around I'm feeling the anticipation.
Last week I had the chance to meet with my professor and our partner from Tanzania, Dr. Mongula. It is great to know I'll have a familiar face when I arrive. And now that I have a clearer picture of what I'll be doing, I can share the details of my trip. First let me explain that this is a three month internship through the Students for Development program and graciously funded by CIDA. This program is offered at Universities across Canada so if this is something you're interested in you should talk to your counselling department!
My first month will be spent in Dar es Salaam, a major port city that functions like a capital city in everything but title. Here I will be meeting with faculty of the Haki Shiriki Katika Sera project to write up biographies that will be released in a media package. This task will allow me to become better acquainted with the various roles and tasks within  the project and of course produce an informative booklet on the NGO. In my time off I will be able to visit the craftsmen markets and go to the beach...which if you know me is a favourite past time!
November and December will be spent in the cooler airs of Monduli and Arusha, which I'm sure will be a welcome change after the hot days in Dar. Here I will be working on my main objective: the creation of a resource database. The Project asked Maasai leaders to identify the areas that need greater development for the benefit of their tribe. The following three areas were identified:
1. Maternity and Early Childhood
2. Livestock
3. Water Resources
There are dozens of NGOs and government projects that provide services in these areas but the key is connecting people to resources. So my task is to gather all the information imaginable on these resources such as when are clinics open? Which areas does the vet visit and when? What are the costs of available services? The list goes on...
Once this database is compiled we can set up something similar to a 'call centre' or 'information line' where people can call one number to find out information on multiple topics. Another opportunity to spread the information is through the local radio station. Perhaps they can have a daily topic that includes resource information and a chance for people to call in and ask questions. Don't forget...nearly everyone has a cell phone in Tanzania.
All of this will involve a lot of travelling around and talking to people, from which I anticipate gaining a fuller understanding of 'real' development work and the face of Tanzania.
So that's about it for now. You can expect these posts to be full of interesting stories and pictures and tales of the people I will meet. Oh the places I'll go!